Atlas Mountains Adventure
The Ultimate MTB Marrakech Guide
The Atlas Mountains are high—so high that Greek mythology suggested they held up the heavens. Today, they are still high and are known more for heavenly views and the slower-paced Berber life there. You can reach this unique world with a 3-4 hour flight from most major European cities.
The main roads in the mountains are loaded with switchbacks and are in generally good condition, as they were once the main route to the South. In the last ten years, a whole series of modern highways have been built, taking truck traffic away from the mountain passes, which is good news for people on two wheels.
The Atlas Mountain Berber villages were established long before the roads. As a result, they are scattered randomly across the High Atlas. The villages were always connected to each other by single-track donkey trails, which form the basis of some of Africa’s best mountain biking trails.
Of course, donkeys and mountain bikes have different gearing, so not every trail is suitable for biking. Deciding the trails in advance is really important, and starting and finishing points are also important to work out the logistics of the ride.
There are a few loop rides, but generally, you need to have pretty good climbing legs to make them work well. The other strategy is to start high and then go down, but it certainly does not guarantee that there will not be some climbing.
I did an MTB ride in late December from the Oukaimeden ski station back to the foothills of Marrakech, thinking it would be all downhill. However, the mountains have an irregular pattern, and I found as much up as down. It was, however, a crazy and beautiful ride.
The timing of the ride is also essential. Early morning is perfect if you like to wake up early, as the sun is still rising through the mountains, but the air is still pretty cold, even in the summer. I would say leaving Marrakech at 8 or 9 is also quite comfortable.
You will arrive at most trailheads by 10 or 11 AM. This gives the mountain air time to heat up, and the views remain good. If you ride for 3-4 hours, you can stop in a mountain restaurant for a Berber Tangine and compare notes and photos of the ride.
There are three major roads out of Marrakech towards the Mountains; they are all mainly two-lane roads with rideable shoulders shared by mopeds.
The Eastern route is route P2017, going towards Ourika. There are a few rides around Ourika, but because the valley is really deep, some steep sections require you to carry your bike. On the way to Ourika, there is a fork to route P2030 at about KM 47 out of the Marrakech, with the right side going to the ski station of Oukaimeden. There is a good trail from the back side of the ski station to Tahanout.
The most plentiful trails are accessed from the middle road N7, which passes through Tahnaout, especially in the areas of Moulay Bahim, Asni, and Ourgaine. There are also restaurants in all of these little Berber cities.
The third road, P2009, all the way to the East, goes to Lalla Takerkoust, a barrage in the mountain with a large lake. The area around the dam is good for cycling, and a bit further down the road, there are trails around the Amizmiz area.
What are the best tires for the Atlas Mountains?
I have found that the block-type tread with 2.2 or even 2.4-inch width on the tires works well in the Atlas Mountains. I feel the wider tires are better as it is dry in the mountains most of the time, and the trails are generally loose and dusty.
When it rains there, the trails become like waterways and deposit a lot of gravel. Other parts have a lot of sticky clay when it rains, which means that the trails can change a lot with time.
Are you renting a bike or bringing your own?
Being on your own bike can be like being in your own bed: familiar and comfortable. But comfort comes at a cost. The first part is prominent; you should consider the cost of sending your bike with you on the plane.
Some airlines have decent rates, but I have yet to find one that will ship it for free. Once you pack everything up and make sure you have the correct items and the right weight, you are off and running.
Running into the next challenge, getting your bike to Marrakech and through Moroccan Customs, negotiating the fee to get it into or onto a taxi, and then putting it together in a hotel room.
This is a stressful process that may not be for everyone. Not to mention where to put that oversized box and dirty bikes while staying in a hotel room. Some of the local biking companies can provide pick-up and bike set-up services; check the links at the end of the article.
If you enjoy doing all this on your own, the good news is that you can do it all again at the end of the trip.
Renting an MTB bike in Marrakech avoids a lot of trouble, but it is important to find a company with the right equipment and a good maintenance program to keep the bikes in top condition. At the bottom of this article, I can provide some references to consider.
There are options if you or someone you are trying to convince to ride with you is worried about the climbing. Some trails have a gentle and continuous descent, which is fine as long as you are just looking for a cruise ride.
Other options? E-bikes have arrived in Marrakech. A few companies offer double and single suspension options. Check their websites and book well in advance to get the right size and type.
In general, the best suggestion is to use a layered strategy. The mornings can be close to freezing in the winter and then warm to near room temperature by the middle of the day. As the trails can be narrow, covering the lower part of your legs can be helpful to avoid scratching up your legs.
You should bring plenty of water; a hydration pack is a good investment as you are really in the wilderness.
Where to stay?
This depends a bit on what you are looking for. Marrakech has more than 1000 hotels from simple to chic.
Single-day and multi-day tours are an effortless way to assemble this type of trip. The excellent tour companies will pick you up at your hotel with your bikes loaded and bring you back in the evening. If you are going out the next day, your bike will be washed and maintained and back with you in the morning.
You do not have to worry about working out the trails and the drop-off and pick-up points. The touring companies generally have experienced local bike guides to help you understand the trail topography and learn more about the surrounding area.
If something should happen along the way, it is always better to have an experienced local guide. One added bonus is that they know where the best lunch spots are in the mountains.
The trails connect the Berber villages, so you will no doubt come in contact with the Berber culture on your rides. Berber people are generally curious about the strangely dressed people on two wheels.
The children are inquisitive and will generally try their limited French on you – bonjour (hello) … stillo (can you give me a pen) … dirham(some coins)?
You may want to pack some pens and candy in your pack just to hand out. The families live a very healthy life, but they have cows for milk, chickens for eggs and tangine, livestock, and farming. From a Western point of view, however, they are quite poor.
The women are more shy, whereas the men are more likely to greet you. Hospitality in the mountains is incredible. I have been invited into several Berber homes to share tea and snacks during a ride. I always leave some money for them, even against their protests.
You may find their flocks of sheep and goats using the same trails, so it is best to be patient and respectful. The Earthquake of 2023 had a significant impact on the mountain Berbers. In some villages, all standing structures were destroyed, as were many people and farm animals.
It will take many years to rebuild, but they are determined people with an ancient way of life that I feel will survive even this disaster.
After an Atlas Mountain MTB ride, getting a Berber lunch is a must. This supports the local economy, and it is mainly incredibly delicious. I once had friends from France visit and stay in a five-star hotel in Marrakech. They went with me to the mountains, tried the Tangine, and proclaimed it the best they had ever eaten, including in the five-star hotel.
From time to time, I have also stopped for a Hamman (traditional steam bath) in the mountains. What a great way to relax after a hard ride. If you are thinking about having a beer in the mountains after the ride, either bring it with you or wait until you are back in Marrakech.
I have never seen a bar in the Atlas Mountains yet, but it could be there is one I do not know about.
Any time of the year is good in the mountains; perhaps late January and February are a bit cold, so use the trails on the lower parts of the trails to avoid snow.
July and August, on the other hand, are on the hot side, and getting up higher in the mountains can provide relief from the high temperatures in Marrakech.
Good references for renting bikes or arranging tours include – www.argansports.com
About the author: Timothy Madden is an American entrepreneur with deep global experience in the specialty chemical industry. He has lived and worked in Belgium, China, India, and Spain for the last 8 years in Houston, Texas. His most recent project is in the Lithium-Ion Battery space. His wife Silvia introduced him to Morocco 37 years ago, and he has been addicted to bike riding in Marrakech and the Atlas Mountains ever since.
